The Feast of Huaquechula

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The Feast of Huaquechula

Every year on October 28th, the town of Huaquechula prepares to receive the souls of those who died violently.

With its different ways of celebrating and remembering the dead, Mexico is a colorful and surreal mosaic of different meanings, most of which find its origins in Pre-Columbian rites that dedicate time to bringing back the memories of those who are gone.

Huaquechula, a town located in the state of Puebla, two and a half hours southeast of Mexico City, is known for building monumental altars during the feast of the Day of the Dead or Dia de los Muertos. Every year on October 28th, the town prepares to receive the souls of those who died violently or after an accident. On the last day of October, locals receive the souls of children who have passed, while the souls of people who died of natural causes are received on November 1st. On this day, at 2pm, the church bells ring to mark the meeting between spirits of dead believers and their living relatives. Finally, on November 2nd, families go to the cemetery before dawn to clean and decorate the graves of their relatives with flowers, candles, and incense.

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Preparations begin the very moment a member of the family dies; his or her relatives start looking for the necessary objects to build an altar. The prices range from $20,000 - $90,000 MXN; considering some people prepare food and drinks to receive the guests. As this process is very expensive, some families are sent money by their relatives living in the U.S. to help cover the costs.

There are three different types of altars. First there's the "new offering" altar, it's made to honor those who've died during the year leading up to the celebrations. Then there's the "old offering" altar, which is dedicated to those who've died years ago but are still expected to come and enjoy the things that they liked in life. And finally, there's the "lonely soul" altar made for those who've died a long time ago and don't have any living relatives.

Walking through the streets of the town, you can see paths made of Aztec marigolds leading to the front doors of some houses in order to guide the souls back home. Inside, incense smoke fills the room that have the huge and gorgeous altars. There are craftsmen who are specially trained to build these altars. Some of the altars can be 19 ft. tall and are covered in large pieces of white fabric, representing the purity of the spirit. Copal incense burners are placed on the altar, along with flowers, clay candlesticks, paper cuts, chocolate, bread and the favorite meals of the dead relatives.

The meaning of these particular structures is divided in the three levels that form them. The first level represents the earthly world so it consists of food. A photo of the dead is also placed here, but it can only be seen when a mirror reflects it because people believe the soul is something that cannot be seen or touched directly. Statues of angels and saints are placed on the second level, which represents the union between Heaven and Earth or humanity and divinity. Finally, the last level represents crossing over to heaven, that's why crucifixes are normally found on this level.

Visitors usually come and contribute candles, flowers or even money to help the families as a way of saying thanks. Families will typically greet guests with water, chocolate and bread; some families even offer tamales and mole.

Each altar has it's own distinct features, such as objects representing the personality of the dead relatives. And even though losing one of your loved ones is sad, an air of celebration can still be felt in these rituals that bring you closer to the dead every year.

The Day of the Dead is considered an Intangible Cultural Heritage by the people of Puebla and UNESCO.

This date is celebrated throughout the country with the same excitement; some places stand out for their beauty, mysticism and devotion in the way of celebrating it. The town of Huaquechula manages to create a magic environment of complicity with visitors as part of the grief that leaves us feeling empty and that we firmly hold on to.

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