Once a Year, People in a Peruvian Town Settle Conflict By Fighting

This article originally appeared on VICE France.

Santo Tomás is the capital of the Chumbivilcas province in the Peruvian Andes, 3,600 metres or so above sea level. The isolated town consists of about 10,000 people, plus a few hundred in surrounding hamlets. People living there are largely of the Korilazos (also spelled Qorilazos) Indigenous population and speak Quechua, the most commonly used pre-colonial language in South America. The area has a long history of resistance to the capital’s rule and of championing the rights and traditions of Indigenous people.

In total, Santo Tomás only has three police officers. The nearest court is a gruelling 12-hour drive away, and few Chumbivilcanos from the town have the time or money to dedicate to court dates. Instead, once a year, between the 24th and 26th of December, people can settle outstanding disagreements by fighting in a public arena, in front of their cheering community. 

The tradition is called Takanakuy – in Quechua “Takar” means “to hit” and “Nakuy” means “reciprocally”. The goal of the tradition is to start the new year on a fresh slate, so every fight begins and ends with a hug. The fights are part of a bigger festival which involves days of drinking, parading through the town’s streets and dancing to Huaylia, an Indigenous genre dealing with themes of freedom and rebellion against colonial forces.

The origins of the festival are unclear. Some say it comes from Indigenous ritual traditions; others think it dates back to the Spanish invasion in the 16th century, when Indigenous people and colonisers would often clash. Similar fighting festivals exist in other parts of the Peruvian and Bolivian Andes, but they don’t happen around Christmas time. 

Despite its violent undertones, the festival feels like a real celebration. There is food, lots of alcohol and people get all dressed up in traditional clothing. After everyone is in high spirits, the villagers come into a circle to watch people fight one-on-one. Spectators cheer at the fighters’ every move, which raise clouds of dust surrounding the arena. 

Kicks, slaps and punches are allowed, but biting, hair-pulling and hitting someone when they are down are not. Fighters can’t grip onto their opponents either. The arena is filled with judges holding whips and intervening when things get too heated – both between fighters and in the crowd.

“The Chumbivilcanos are used to fighting against the elements,” said Victor, one of the fighters. “Our blood is boiling, fighting gives you a sense of satisfaction.” Working and living in this high-altitude rural environment requires strength, which is cultivated here from childhood. The fights are about proving to the community you are dependable and ready to protect yourself and loved ones against injustices – stolen lovers, sheep, food – and daily hardships. 

On the day of Takanakuy, social status is suspended. The boss fights the employee, the waiter the merchant, the sisters each other. People of every age – from small children to old people – and gender can participate. Women have started fighting in recent years, too, and although not everyone is happy about that, it’s fairly common.

Another important rule of Takanakuy is that there is no winner. In the circle, people can let off steam but don’t – unlike a court trial – decide who is right. Everyone is free to interpret their fight the way they want to – victory, catharsis or just plain old revenge.

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